‘Mountains rearing straight up from the sea, deep wooded gorges, ravines and valleys — and yet more glorious mountains, standing proud and acting as a magnet to the eye and the imagination — that’s Western Crete, or real Crete, as some would say. Its strong, dramatic scenery and colours create sweeping landscapes of harsh but beautiful countryside — countryside that has been the backdrop for heroic deeds, ancient civilisations and constant intrigue for thousands of years, and the home of obdurate, tough-spirited people — made so by their labours on the land and their experiences.

‘Getting to know Western Crete takes time; the number of people who explore beyond the obvious is slowly growing. We hope we will lead you straight to the heart of the matter with this book, whether you are a first- or second-time visitor unsure about how best to get to know the island or, indeed, if you are someone who doesn’t need convincing but would like a reliable, thorough and different guide. We encourage you to explore to the full. We won’t need to inspire you; one look at Western Crete will do that.’

INDEX

Preface 5
Acknowledgements; Background reading 6

Getting about 7
Plans of Hania and Rethimnon 8-9

Picnicking 10
Picnic suggestions 11

A country code for walkers and motorists 13
Touring 14
Some points worth noting 15

1 THE FAR WEST 16
Hania • (Kastelli-Kissamos) • (Polirinia) • Vathi • Moni • Chrisoskalitisas • (Elafonisi) • Elos • Topolia • Hania

2 PALEOHORA AND SOUTH COAST BEACHES 20
Hania • Tavronitis • Voukolies • Kandanos • Paleohora • Kandanos • (Sougia) • Hania

3 COUNTRYSIDE, COASTAL BACKWATER AND HIGH CRETAN PASTURELAND 22
Hania • Nea Roumata • Agia Irini • Epanohori • Sougia • Omalos • Lakki • Fournes • Hania

4 THE AKROTIRI PENINSULA 25
Hania • Kounoupidiana • Stavros • Agia Triada • Moni Gouverneto • (Souda Bay Cemetery) • Hania

5 THE FOOTHILLS OF THE LEVKA ORI 27
Hania • Aptera • Katohori • Kambi • Mournies • Hania

6 A SLICE OF CRETE 28
Hania • Vrises • Askyfou • Hora Sfakion • Frangokastello • Selia • Asomatos • Moni Preveli • Rethimnon • Episkopi • Georgioupoli • Hania

7 CRETAN TREASURES 33
Hania • (Rethimnon) • Armeni • Spili • Agia Galini • Festos • Agia Triada • Hania

8 THE AMARI VALLEY 35
Hania • Rethimnon • Apostoli • Thronos • Fourfouras • Agios Ioannis • Gerakari • Rethimnon • Hania

Walking (see explanation of symbols on page 38) 37
Grading, waymarking, maps, GPS 38
Things that bite or sting 39
What to take 40
Weather 41
Where to stay 41
Walkers’ checklist 41
Greek for walkers 42
Organisation of the walks 44

THE WALKS
1 Circuit via Agia 45
2 Kotsifou Gorge 48
The Diktamos Gorge: from Katohori to Stilos or Nio Horio) 50
4 Kambi • Volika refuge • Kambi 52
5 Georgioupoli circuit 56
6 Lake Kournas circuit 59
7 The Prassanos Gorge 62
8 Rethimnon • Chromonastiri • Myli 66
9 Myli Gorge 69
10 Gouverneto and Katholikou 71
11 Rodopos • Agios Ioannis Gionis • Rodopos 72
12 A circuit from Kolimbari via Moni Gonia 76
13 From Sirikari to Polirinia 78
14 Katsomatados • Mouri • Voulgaro 80
15 Sasalos • Katsomatados • Topolia 84
16 The Agia Irini Gorge 86
17 Sougia • Lisos • Paleohora 88
18 From Paleohora (Krios Beach) to Elafonisi 90
19 Xiloskala • Linoseli Col • Gingilos • Xiloskala 92
20 A high mountain circuit from Kallergi 95
21 The Samaria Gorge 99
22 From Agia Roumeli to Loutro 102
23 Loutro and the Aradhena Gorge 104
24 From Loutro to Hora Sfakion 111
25 The Imbros Gorge • Komitades • Hora Sfakion 112
26 Kares (Askyfou) • Asfendos • Agios Nektarios 115
27 Circuit via Moni Preveli 118
28 Ano Meros • Tripiti • Ano Meros 122
29 Circuit from Mixorouma via Frati 125
30 The Kamares Cave 128
31 Eleftherna 130

Bus timetables 133
Index (of geographical names) 135
Fold-out touring maps inside back cover of Western and Eastern Crete